Corporate Division

1. Gotta Go!

All cars must have 4 wheels. It is not required that you use the wheels provided with the kit, however, the tires that you choose to use must not exceed 12″ in diameter. Each derby car must be gravity powered. No motors or engines. Cars must be between 4 ft. to 6 ft. long and 2 ft. to 3 ft. wide. When using wood it is suggested that you use screws rather than nails and be sure to use plenty of wood glue. The maximum weight for a car without a driver is 200 lbs.

2. Gotta Turn!

• Simple pivot steering is the most basic and common steering system. Basically, the front axle is a solid piece that rotates about a single pivot in the center. This system is the most simple to construct and is quite adequate since you will not need a big turning radius.
• Four bar linkage is like a steering mechanism that you might find in your automobile. It is more complex and harder to construct and thus it is seldom recommended. Whatever method of steering you use, it is not wise to limit it to the range of your car. The derby course may have turns but will not be tight so there will be little need for sharp turns. Please do not design your car to turn on a dime, it is not safe and may cause your car to flip.
• Steering can be performed by either legs (common with simple pivot) or hands (wheel or lever). Please test to make sure pinch points are considered through a range of motion.

3. Gotta Stop!

• Skidpad on the wheels is a very basic, yet very effective braking method. In this method, you set up a pad or brake shoe that rubs against the wheels to stop the car. This is the most preferred method for cars made from scratch because of its effectiveness and simplicity.
• A skid pad on the ground is similar to the first option, but instead of a pad contacting the wheels, it contacts the ground. This method is a little more complex to construct and probably less effective than the pad on the wheels method. However, this is the method that was first used in soapbox racers.
• Caliper brakes on the wheels are like your basic bicycle brakes. This method works great although the construction needs to be fairly concise for the brakes to be effective.
• Regardless of the braking system that you choose, the most important thing is that the car must be able to stop. Good brakes will go a long way in preventing crashes.
• All cars must be able to demonstrate that at least two wheels can be stopped completely (unable to cause at At least 2 wheels to turn with the brake applied when the car stopped) with the driver in the seat.

4. Helmets are a must!

• Please do not alter helmets in any way that would change their effectiveness. Cars will not be allowed on the track unless the driver is wearing a helmet. Elbow pads are also strongly encouraged.
• Helmets must be certified helmets and can be designed for bicycles or power sports/motorcycles.

5. Gotta get checked!

• All cars must be inspected before running on course for the first time. If any aspects of the car are determined to be unsafe (at the inspector’s discretion) they must be rectified before being able to run on the course. If modifications are not able to be made before running time cars will not be allowed to participate. This could include aspects of the car that could pose the danger of injuring either the drivers or observers and/or if the car is determined not to be sufficiently structurally sound.
• The race officials can request a car is re-inspected during the event if there is a crash or question of driver or spectator safety during the event.

6. Gotta Pay!

Full entrants fee must be paid with each entry submission in order to hold a spot. There are 30 spots and they do go fast! Note: Each vehicle will be inspected prior to race day during registration. Any vehicle deemed unsafe or a possible hazard will not be allowed to race until the safety issue has been resolved. Cars failing to meet minimum safety requirements, will not be allowed to enter the race. Once the payment has been made please fill out/submit the form below: